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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.